Archery Notes

[AuroraFLaim]

Archery Safety: Before we head out to the archery range I want to go over some safety .

1. A common danger in archery is the arm slap. The main reason beginners and other archer's arms are hit by their bow string is because they have a flaw in their technique.

2. If an arrow falls off the bow and lands just in front of or behind the shooting line, or perhaps is shot a few feet away, BE CAREFUL WHEN GETTING THE ARROW. To properly retrieve it, keep both feet firmly planted at the shooting line and reach for the arrow using your bow limbs. If the arrow cannot be retrieved by this method, do not try to step out any further because
AuroraFreeBorn: that arrow is considered to be "shot".

3. When looking for arrows that missed the target, make sure to keep your eyes directly in front of you, so that, you don't crush or get stabbed by yours or someone else's arrow.

4. Do not lower your guard when pulling out arrows from the target. They are just as dangerous as arrows in flight. To pull out an arrow, place one hand on the target and the other on the shaft. Pull with a twisting motion. You may want to use an arrow puller to keep arrows straight. The arrow may come out suddenly right back at you so brace yourself. Make sure your face is not directly behind the arrow when pulling it out so as not to pose a risk to your eyes

5. Wear a chest protector to reduce the chances that the bow string will snag your shirt and hit you.

[AuroraFLaim]

The Art of the Bow Terms and Definitions

Anchor:
Drawing the bow and holding the string to the same location every time--(anchoring)

Armguard: A bracer usually made of leather worn on the arm that holds the bow.

Arrow nock: The notch at the end of the arrow designed to fit around

Billet OR Bow Stave: The long trimmed and seasoned piece of wood used to make a bow, usually of a fine grain without knots or pits.

Bolt: A short thick headed arrow used with a crossbow.

Bow String: The string tied to each end of the bow, usually madeof treated linen, or sinew (animal tendons).

Bow Arm:The arm used in holding the bow when shooting. (See "Draw Arm")

Braced Bow: A bow that is strung and ready for shooting.

Cresting: Colors or designs on the end of an arrow shaft, a way of personalizing and telling one persons arrows from another.

Drag:The air resistance on an arrow in flight, mostly caused byair or wind passing over the fletching.

Draw Arm:The arm used to nock and pull the string to the anchor point. (see "Bow Arm")

Draw Length: The distance at full draw from the nocking point to the back of the grip.

Draw Weight: The amount of force in pounds required to draw the bow.

Fletch: The feather that is at the end of the arrow used to stabilize or control the arrows flight path.

Kisser: A mark or knot on the bowstring which touches the same part of your lips each draw.

Let Down: To release the tension in a fully drawn bow, slowly, without shooting the arrow.

Nocking: Location where arrow sits on the bowstring.

Nocking Points/Marks : One or two knots or marks on the bowstring used to keep the arrow in place and keep the nocking point consistent.

Quiver: A sleeve, sheath container which holds the arrows usually worn on the hip, shoulder or back.

Shoot-Through Rest: A release aid. Two prongs holding the arrow shaft steady when aiming. When the arrow releases, the fletching flies through the two prongs.

Snap-Shot: Drawing and releasing of arrows in rapid succession, usually done without coming to a full draw.

Span: The drawing back of a crossbow.

Spine : Refers to the strength of the arrow shaft OR the outside edge of the bow (the side opposite the string).

Standard Stance: Archer stands with left side towards target (for right-handers), feet parallel, head turned 90 degrees towards the target with chin touching or almost touching the left shoulder. (opposite stance for left-handers).

Tiller:The rotation of an arrow in flight, OR the wooden stock upon which a crossbow is mounted.

Torque: The undesirable twisting of the bow or bowstring on release of the arrow.

Trajectory : The path of an arrow in flight.

[AuroraFLaim]

Taking care of your bow:

Your bow must be cared for just as any sword or piece of armour. Careful waxing will reduce the fatigue in the wood. Cold, heat or exposure to damp conditions can also warp or weaken the wood of the bow. To protect against this you might wrap the bow in a leather cover. An archer should never carry their bow worn over the shoulder and chest like a sash. This only stretches the string and ruins the tautness of the wood. Also remember to unstring your bow when not needed to keep the tension in the wood.

Bowstrings: Linen strings require care and are generally short lived. They must be waxed and inspected carefully, along with all archery equipment, for wear before use. Should the string break when an arrow is shot, the bow will have nothing to stop the forward thrust of the limbs, most likely causing the bow itself to break too.

Bracers: Used to protect the bow arm, providing a smooth surface for the string to strike. The Bracer or Armguard also keeps shirtsleeves tied back so it won't deflect or tangle in the string and spoil the shot.

Fingerguards: Generally the fingerguard is a leather tab that fits over your drawing fingers like rings. An archers glove might also be used, it is a glove with only two finger covers, leaving your thumb, index finger and pinkie finger free. The guard and glove cut down on friction to your skin from the flight of the arrow and any snapback of your bowstring. Veteran archers tend to go without fingerguards/gloves since they have natural callouses from continuous practice.

[AuroraFLaim]

The art of the Bow.
Tools of the Trade.Definitions and Descriptions Types of Bows

The Flatbow: The Flatbow has a wide limb profile and low arched or flat belly. When drawn the stresses are distributed evenly in the wood for advantage when shooting in dense forests The Flatbow has slightly more power to it than the Short Bow due to it's thicker wider build, it also takes more strength to draw when firing or to bend when re-stringing.

Short Bow: Short bows are easier to use than other bows, and surpass the longbow for short range targets. Unlike the long bow, the short bow can be used while standing, kneeling, on horseback or in confined spaces. The disadvantage of the short bow is without a doubt the lack of range, the longer the distance to be fired, the less force the arrow will have upon meeting the target.

The Longbow: A longbow has a D-shaped cross section usually running about 5 ft in length, or sometimes longer. The bow of choice for distance shooting but generally useless in close quarters. Longbows are easier to build than the wide limbed flatbow, which is an advantage when many bows have to be made to supply armies Because of the D shaped cross section the forces are concentrated on a very small area of the belly when drawn. To minimize the compression, the bow must be made very long (hence the name!). The best wood for this bow is the elastic Yew.

The Recurve: Recurving of the ends gives this bow its name along with the look of elegance. A recurved bow shoots faster and farther than a straight ended bow of the same weight and they have a smoother draw. Recurved Bows are not as long as the long bow...but not as small as the short bow. A mid sized weapon that proves its worth both in the open and in confined spaces. Strong yet lightweight.

The Crossbow:The crossbow is a bow built for raw power. It uses an artificial tension rather than a hand drawn force, with the string pulled back by crank to be locked into place before firing, much like a catapult. Accuracy is lost when using a crossbow for long range shooting so stick to closer targets with this weapon.
Crossbow bolts are shorter and thicker than regular arrows with a much heavier arrow head, and are more apt to punch right through certain types of Armour.

[AuroraFLaim]

Bow Woods:
(only a few of many)

Yew being a conifer it is softer and so more delicate, and it does not take extremes of temperature well. A bow of this wood can break if used in freezing temperatures and will lose cast in very hot weather.

Hickory kept dry, a bow crafted of hickory will rival any in strength and flexibility. Cold and hot temperatures do little damage to this bow wood but dampness should be avoided.

Ash Another excellent wood for the Long bow,recurved bow, and flat bow. When cured properly a bow of this wood is virtually unbreakable and retains its flexibility through long usage.

Osage or Hedge Apple : Loves to grow twisted, crooked and full of limbs. Finding quality staves from this wood is very difficult but well worth the effort since it ishard yet elastic, resinous and durable which makes it unaffected by climate extremes.

[AuroraFLaim]

AuroraFreeBorn: II. Field and Field Equipment

1. On the field, make sure grass is mowed so it is easier to find missed arrows. Fill in holes and remove any litter found on the field which may pose a threat to the archers.

2. Markers and lines should be close to the ground, well defined, and fixed to stay there.

3. Make sure that the target stands are in good condition. Frequent arrow hits can seriously weaken the wooden legs.

4. If target butts become too soft to stop arrows, replace them. Frequent pass-through effect arrow control and the safety.

5. Use a distinct number of blasts from a loud whistle. If using word commands, be sure to pronounce each word clearly so no one can get confused.

[Aurora FreeBorn]

[b]III. Personal Tackle
One very important thing to take care of is your personal tackle. Always keep it in good shape and treat it with respect. Make sure to keep the arrows under control
and NEVER lose safety standards, EVER. Here are some key points to remember:[/b]

1. Keep a wooden bow waxed and dry.

2. Inspect the ends of the limbs for good condition and for moisture. Use a clear fingernail polish to seal up any nicks. Hold the limbs off the ground to avoid nicks and moisture

3. Examine the bowstring regularly, making sure that it is waxed and not damaged. Make sure you know howto re-serve a center serving, as well as, how to fix the loops when it's possible.

4.See if the nocking point is in the correct position and know how to place and replace a nocking indicator.

5. Check the arrow nocks and points condition regularly. Know how to fix nocks and points, or, how to make a quick field repair.

6. Check the arrow nocks and points condition regularly. Know how to fix nocks and points, or, how to make a quick field repair.

7. If you have wooden arrows, inspect for cracks. If there are cracks and the arrow is long enough, cut off that portion of the arrow and put on the point so other archers with smaller draw lengths can use them.

8. Make sure all leather and vinyl accessories i.e. finger tabs, arm guards, etc, are up to field competition standards.[/color]